I schlepped out here one afternoon last week in search of a certain quantity of high-quality smoked fish to serve at a party. The location is weird--an office park off Windy Hill, in what looks like it could be the headquarters of a mid-sized pool cleaning business. But this is not a pool-cleaning business--it is, in fact, a small but well-stocked retail outlet for all things Russian and pickled, salted, and--thanks be to God--smoked. The smoking, both hot and cold, is done in-house, behind the shop--hence the wacky location. After tasting a few items, I bought a large side (~3 lb) of smoked salt-and-pepper nova salmon ($30), a half-side of smoked butterfish (which I think is actually sable, $27), a cold-smoked trout ($8), and an 8-oz. jar of salmon caviar ($14). The fish was truly some of the highest quality I've ever had--silky yet toothsome, with a deep, smoky flavor and a woodsy aroma. The butterfish had a pale, firm flesh, and was cut a bit thicker, which nicely highlighted the slightly springy texture of the flesh. I did not get to taste the trout as it was quickly picked clean; however, the animals I call friends all tell me it was premium. The salmon caviar (the large, reddish-pink eggs) was reasonably good--this is not a product made by the smokehouse, and was middle-of-the-road in terms of the quality they have available. All but the trout were frozen when I bought them, but neither the texture nor the flavor appeared to suffer from that at all. Service was provided by a delightful woman who made honest recommendations and opened a few products to give me tastes, including the whitefish salad and the salmon spread. They were both a bit rich for my taste, and I didn't love the flavor of the whitefish, but the salmon spread would be killer on a fresh bagel or stuffed into an olive. Other products available include cured meats and sausages, a variety of dairy products including farmer's cheeses, pickled tomatoes/cucumbers/grape leaves/etc., Russian cookies/candy/canned things/etc. and these amazing frozen chocolate-covered cheesecake confections. (On a side note, do not miss the amazing frozen chocolate-covered cheesecake confections.) Who's Barney Greengrass, again? Whatever. Atlanta Smokehouse's quality is unbeatable, period. And the price is terrific. And it's locally made by nice people. They should be very proud of the product they're selling, and you should buy as much of it as you can fit into your fridge.
Karen L. on Dec 16, 2012